FINANCIAL LOANS FOR WATER HEATER REPAIR

Introduction

Everything made comes with its shortcomings which are meant to be properly attended to when the needs arise. There are different home electronic appliances that serve purposely for your comfort and easiness. However, at times when any of these stops working adequately, you are then expected to get it repaired in time. The fact is: Do you actually know that you can make a request for a private loan to get the right things done? Of course yes! You can. People collect loans for car repair, home improvements, etc. From this article, the mind of your understanding will be opened to the steps to take and the things involved in getting private loans for the intended purpose. The water heater is an invaluable home appliance that needs the immediate reaction of repair when its function is down. It is then seen that a lot of borrowers obtain a home loan to fix the maintenance and other renovation work of their homes.

Home Improvement Loans

Home improvement loans are personal loans you get purposely for home improvement projects. They are loans collected with a fixed interest rate and to be paid back over a given period of time which may be 3–5 years. It is a flexible type of loan as it comes with impressive simplicity. Your request is granted quickly if you go through the easy lender. Your origination fees may be up to 5% to 6% of your loan. Getting a financial loan for the water heater is not a complex process being a small home improvement project. Home improvement loans can be used to finance kitchen furnishings appearance of the bathroom, new furniture, home exterior outlook, home renovations in general, etc. From Light Stream, home improvement loans provide unsecured options which do not take as collateral your proportionate home property. The use of your personal income and credit history are allowed. Consequently, you can obtain this loan anytime since it’s an unsecured loan. You aren’t required of any form of collateral!

Consideration for a Personal Home Improvement Loan

People have specific reasons to back up whatever they do. Before you make an application for a personal home improvement loan, there are some things you must consider. These are:

  1. There is no enough proportionate valued home property to borrow against.
  2. The interest rate will depend on your risk measurement and will be raised higher than charges on HELOCs and home equity loans.
  3. For a small project like water heater repair, it is advisable to go for a one-time home improvement loan
  4. You will be on Estimated Monthly Installments.

The Uniqueness of Home Improvement Loans

  1. Free of Collateral: You don’t need collateral to obtain them. What you need are your credit history and risk measurement. These are meant to determine what interest rates you will be charged. You don’t need your house for collateral. Well, that sounds pretty cool!
  2. Limited Repayment Periods: The repayment procedure period will be decided based on the kind of lender you patronize which can run through the limit of two to seven years, depending on the lender.
  3. Less Constraint: You are not restrained by your available assets. What you have and what you don’t have do not stop you from applying for unsecured loans. Furthermore, There is access to information to know whether your application is approved or canceled
  4. Fixed Charges: There are fixed interest rates on unsecured loans for water heater repairs. Your estimated monthly installments repayment on the loan you obtain is stationary till you pay it all.
  5. Lower Closing Amounts: The borrower’s risk measurement will determine the upfront fees instead of a fixed 2 percent to 5 percent when dealing under secured loans.

Prerequisites for Home Improvement Loans

After you have intended to patronize a personal loan company for the loan application, you must observe the following points to see if you are eligible or not. These are:

  1. Credit Score and Credit History: Your credit risk measurement will determine the kind of charge that will be issued out to you. You will be asked to provide the history of your credit. Both must be at a very high number.
  2. Appliance’s Amount: You must know how much the repair of your water heater costs before applying for a home improvement loan. You must ensure you borrow based on the exact cost and not more than what you need.
  3. DTI Ratio: Do an intensive calculation on the ratio of your monthly gross income percentage that pays off your monthly debt. The cut off percentage for debt-to-income varies relating to lenders. Some consider 20 whereas many consider 50 percent of your considerable assets.
  4. Personal Details: Info pertaining to what you do and the way you live your life will be required. Personal information such as SSN, history of employment, weekly or monthly income, employer’s biodata, and monthly debts records will be asked for. There is a need to provide them for eligibility.

Conclusion

In a nutshell, not having enough cash to do what you need to do in relation to home improvements should debar you from attending to the necessary things. The funds needed to repair your water heater can be got from somewhere else. For something small, you don’t need to put yourself in an inconvenient situation as you can get a loan using your credit history and credit score. With this type of loan, you feel free and comfortable tend to the easy way of repayment. You mind want to take this offer to attend to your home improvements. Through Myinstantoffer.com, you will get the full loan amount with a low-interest rate. For more on this, check   HYPERLINK “https://myinstantoffer.cc“.

Help with Buying a Water Heater

Every home needs a water heater to enjoy the modern benefits of temperature preferred water. But the number of options on the market can make the process of picking one pretty difficult and unnecessarily confusing. Keep reading for help choosing the right water heater for your home. We’ll cover the size, whether to choose electric or gas and the costs involved.

Considering all the Options

As I mentioned, there’s no shortage of options when you’re in the market for a water heater. There are the storage varieties, which include full-sized and compact versions, tankless heaters and even the kind that goes right under your sink. You’ll also need to consider the type of fuel you’ll want to use for your water heater. There are those that run on natural gas or propane. Electricity’s always an option as well. Many still even run on less common options like wood and/or wood pellets.

Of course, there are other considerations too. You’ll need to think about how much space you have in your home as that will determine the size you’re able to accommodate. Take time to think about the options you have for storing it too as you may have some you haven’t explored. This could mean a bigger or better water heater. Fortunately, this buying guide will help you take advantage of all the options you have available to you.

solar water heater

Storage Water Heaters

When most people think of water heaters, they imagine the storage variety. They’re tall and cylindrical tanks that generally come in white. These water heaters run on electricity, propane, natural gas or fuel oil to carry out their operation. Depending on their size, storage water heaters can hold between 20 and 120 gallons of water at once.

For the most part, your water heater will last you about 13 years. While this alone makes them a good investment, you can do much more. You want one that operates as efficiently as possible (and, of course, there are things you can do to ensure this), so you don’t spend those 13 years operating at a huge loss. When you think about how often you need hot water in your home, it’s easy to see how much money you could waste by using inefficient heaters. The easiest way to know how efficient a model is and compare it to others is by checking the EnergyGuide label on each of them.

Should I Buy an Electric or Gas Water Heater?

If you’re in the market for a new water heater, you have plenty of options to choose from. One decision you might be facing early on, though, is whether you should choose a model that is fueled by gas or electricity.

Natural gas is certainly the preferred variety, at least for now. It powers about half the water heaters currently on the market. Most of the other half, though, is fueled by electricity. Just a small percentage of models currently use propane (LP), kerosene or oil. There are also some water heaters that run on solar panels or by burning wood.

When natural gas is an option, you should choose a water heater that is gas fueled. While electricity is clearly a popular choice, it should be seen as a second-best alternative. People in the know only choose electricity when natural gas simply isn’t an option or if their home can’t support a flue through the roof for whatever reason.

Gas is not only more affordable, but it’s also more efficient when it comes to heating your tank’s supply of water. For that matter, kerosene, oil and propane are better options as well. But none of them can be piped to a house, so they’d be far less convenient.

In 2012, the Department of Energy provided the following data about the average cost of energy sources for residential homes. These numbers were dollars per million BTUs:

  • Electricity: $32.55
  • Kerosene: $23.73
  • Propane: $23.07
  • Oil: $19.08
  • Gas: $10.54

Now, obviously, these rates are different by locale and vary as time goes by. But still, even with a large degree of variance, it’s easy to see that natural gas is the most efficient option available.

The type of fuel you select for your water heater will affect more than just your system’s output. It will also decide how much you spend every year. Efficiency affects both.

For example, if you select an electric heat pump for your heater, you’ll most likely enjoy greater efficiency over a more conventional option like a storage water heater. This means you’d be more likely to pay less each year in energy costs.

When you’re shopping around, check for the energy factor, or EF, on a system’s label. This tells you how efficient the unit is in converting its fuel into heat. The higher that number, the more efficient the water heater is. You’ll find that electric water heaters have numbers that range between 0.75 and 0.95. Gas units fall between .5 and .07. Keep in mind that electric units may run more efficiently, but they’re also usually more expensive to run than gas.

Reasons of Purchasing a Point-of-Use Water Heater

In a larger home or business where the sink is located far away from your large water heater, it can take up to a minute for your water to heat up. In these cases, it’s recommended to install a point-of-use water heater. This small appliance is the best at bringing hot water to your bathroom or kitchen sink quickly. It can be installed right near the faucet it supplies, connecting directly to the plumbing, so the instant you cut on your fixture, you have hot water.

 

Conventional Water Heater Vs Point-of-Use

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With a conventional water heater, every time you cut on the hot water, the heated water fills up the whole plumbing from the heater to the sink in use. Once you cut your water off, the heated water immediately starts cooling down. This is a waste of the energy that was used to heat it.

Point-of-use water heaters are an energy efficient choice because it cuts out the distance your water has to travel between the main water heater and the far away faucet. The water is still hot by the time it travels the pipes to your sink. You also don’t have to keep the sink running while waiting for your heated water, saving on gallons of water waste per month.

Models of Point-of-Use Water Heaters

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Point-of-use water heaters can be either tank or tankless. The storage capacity can be anywhere from 2.5 gallons to up to 20-gallon tanks. They are most often electric, coming in either a 120- or 240-volt model.

—-120-volt models can be plugged into any regular electrical outlet and is often supplied with a tank..

—-240-volt models are usually tankless and need to be connected directly into the electrical wiring.

Prices of Point-of-Use Water Heaters

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Many home improvement stores, including Home Depot, Lowe’s, and Walmart, carry these small water heaters, but you can also get them online at sites like Amazon. For a 120-volt tankless heater, the cost can be as little as $150, For the same voltage water heater with a 2.5-gallon storage tank, the price can be as little as $160.

 

In contrast, a 240-volt tankless water heater doesn’t cost less than $215. A 240-volt water heater with a 2.5-gallon tank can be as much as $458. The price of each is mostly dependent on the brand, and the company that sells it.

Water Heater Leaking from the Top and Bottom

A step by step guide repair guide

When it comes to leakage in a water heater one will find the problem at the top, the T & P valve, or the bottom. If there are leaks elsewhere then the unit must be replaced. Whereas any leak is unfortunate for the owner, a leak from the top is less of a problem than one from the bottom. Yet, one should carefully inspect the water heater to ensure that only a leak is the problem and not a more severe issue. Should you be unsure of the problem contact a licensed plumber. Water problems are a part of home ownership. Over time one’s water heater is sure to need maintenance and repair. One of the most common problems for a water heater to develop is leakage. The symptoms of a leaky water faucet are generally easy to spot. First, if the duration of hot water drops from day to day or very dramatically, the odds are that there is a leak somewhere (if not with the water heater than with a pipe). Secondly, if there is water discoloration, there is a high chance that one’s water heater is leaking or about to start leaking. One should also consider the warranty and estimated the lifespan of the unit. If the age is approaching that date, one should visually inspect the unit for any leakage.

  • Common wear and tear have caused loose fittings – Upon inspecting the unit, ensure that anything connecting to the top of the water heater is securely tightened. The main locations for top leaks are for the most part found around the water inlet area. A sure indicator would be a small accumulation of water around the joints that connect the pipes and fittings to the main unit. If there are any loose nuts and bolts one can easily tighten these down with the appropriate wrench. However, if one finds a leak from an already tightened nut or bolt, then he or she needs to ensure that the threads are not stripped. If the pipe is damaged then a professional plumber would need to do the repairs to avoid mistakes in the repair and future damage to the unit.
  • The more serious problem – When there is a small amount of water on the side of the water heater, then the problem could be in the temperature and pressure relief valve. Follow the stream of water on the side of the tank to ensure that is actually coming from the side T&P valve and not overflow from a top leak. Should there be any water around the seam of the valve the further analysis will be needed to determine if the unit can be repaired or if it needs to be replaced. First, ensure that the water level is below the level of the valve. For obvious reasons, one would not want to take the valve off prior to doing so. It is not necessary to remove all the water from the tank, however, just enough to be lower than the hole from where the valve fits. Upon removing the T & P valve carefully inspect the part for any signs of rust or corrosion to the part. If there is any corrosion to be found then at best you will need to find a replacement T & P. However, in most cases where there is rust or corrosion on this part a new water heater will need to be installed. If there is no rust or corrosion on the valve then the most plausible answer is that the part is insecure to the tank in some way. Return the valve after adding tape to the threads to help prevent leakage.
  • If you see water under the tank – The most common place to see the water is on the floor around or under the water heater. Where this is an area of concern, the problem may be fixable. Upon noticing water buildup ensure that there is no water within the drain pipe leading from the T&P valve. If there is any moisture or if you spot dripping from the pipe, the odds are that the T&P valve will need to be replaced. If you have already checked the valve and it appears to be running correctly ensure that the drain valve is secured and working. If malfunctioning a quick solution (though you are advised to seek a plumber for full repair) is to attach a brass bearing hose to the area for the drain valve.
  • Sediment is a death sentence for water heaters – If you have checked the top of the tank, as well as the side for issues with the temperature and pressure release valve and there, are no issues then it is time to drain the tank. However, before you do this look at the base of the tank to see if there are any visible cracks or holes. If so then you need to go any further. It is advised that if you still do not see any issues that you call a plumber. However, you can inspect for sediment issues if you are confident enough.  If when you drain the tank you find a great deal of sediment, then there is a major problem and the tank will need to be replaced.

Capacity and Size When Choosing A Water Heater

There are many things to consider when you are choosing a water heater for your home. You want to make sure the appliance is capable of maintaining your hot water needs for every spigot. Capacity and size are your first concerns when looking at your water heater.

Capacity

First, you must find out what capacity your water heater has. Capacity factors in the size of the storage tank and how quickly your tank can heat, also known as its recovery time.

Storage tank size

Storage tank size can range from 20-120 gallons, usually 40-80 gallons, unless it is a shorter low-boy model. You have to understand your family’s needs, a too small tank will run out of hot water too quickly, but if you get one that is too big, you will be paying way too much to keep your full tank heated.

Recovery time

Recovery time can be found by checking the FHR number (first-hour rating). This number can be found on a label on the tank. Your FHR needs are dependent on how many bathrooms and occupants are in your home, whether you have a gas-powered water heater or an electric water heater.

Rating either type of storage water heaters is contingent on how many gallons they can raise, in one hour, to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Gas-powered

Gas units can recover more than a full tank in an hour. For gas-powered water heaters, recovery time is dependent on overall efficiency and the BTU input. Input on a 30-gallon unit is about 32,000, to up to 88,000 BTUs for a 100-gallon tank. The recovery time is faster on an efficient water heater with higher BTU input.

Electric

Electric heaters are usually rated 20-25 gallons per hour. Electric water heater elements usually range between one 5,500-watt element or two 4,500-watt elements. The two lower-kilowatt elements work better in cohesion than the one higher-wattage element, heating your water much faster.

Measuring your family’s needs

Measuring your family’s needs can be measured by determining both the number of bathrooms in your home and the number and ages of its occupants. For instance, a family with smaller children would need a larger water heater than a family with three adults, because families tend to need more laundry done with smaller children.

Obviously, the number of bathrooms factors in. A one-bathroom home should have either a 30 or 40 gallon tank, while more bathrooms would mean larger tanks. Also, for three or more bathrooms, be aware of whether you are getting a gas tank or an electric, an electric water heater will take longer to heat so you would need a larger tank.

A Water Heater Dictionary with Pictures

Anode Rod

A long metallic rod that’s screwed into the top of the hot water heater that, through a process of electrolysis, slowly degrades over time to protect the other metallic parts, and must be replaced every four to six years.

Burner

The gas flame in the hot water heater that heats up the water.

Circuit Breaker

In most modern homes, the system used to protect electrical systems against power surges or other electrical issues. Electrical hot water heaters have their own separate breaker on the panel.

Cold Water Inlet

The incoming water supply for the heater, normally located near the top of the appliance.

Cold Water Shut-Off Valve

A valve on the cold water inlet used to manually shut off the water when the heater is in need of repair or replacement.

Dip Tube

An extension onto the cold water inlet that ensures new unheated water is deposited at the bottom of the tank, allowing already-heated water to rise to the top for use.

Electric Water Heater

A hot water heater that uses electricity to heat water, as opposed to other power sources such as gas or coal.

Element

A piece of metal that is heated using electricity, such as on a stove or in a water heater. Most electric water heaters have two elements, at the top and bottom of the appliance.

Gas Water Heater

A hot water heater that uses a natural gas flame as a power source, as opposed to other power sources such as electricity or coal.

Heat Exchanger

A piece of equipment designed to transfer heat from where it’s produced to where it’s needed while minimizing waste energy. Tankless water heaters use heat exchangers to quickly heat the water as it passes through the device.

Heater Drain Valve

A manual tap or valve near the bottom of the hot water heater. This can be used to drain the tank for disposal or to remove sediment.

 Hot Water Outlet

The pipe near the top of the heater from which heated water leaves the tank.

Insulation

A material used to reduce the rate of heat transfer (i.e. to keep hot things hot and cold things cold). Tank-style water heaters are wrapped in insulation.

On/Off Control

All heaters have some form of the control system to turn the machine on and off. This may be part of, or separate from, the thermostat. On electrical heaters, on/off control is sometimes only possible by flipping the circuit breaker.

Pilot Light

In gas-powered heaters, this is a small flame that is always on, allowing the primary heater to kick in without an additional ignition source.

Sediment

Calcium and other minerals and particulate matter that exists naturally in the water supply, but may begin to build up over time in a water heater. Sediment build-up can have serious effects on the capacity and efficiency of the water heater, blocking up pipes and logging machinery. Sediment can be dealt with by flushing out your heater once a year.

Storage Tank

On standard model heaters, a large tank is used that is always full of already-heated water.

Tankless Water Heater

Some models of water heater, instead of keeping a storage tank of water at the ready, consist of a series of pipes and a heat exchanger. Water enters the system as needed, is rapidly heated up, and is then sent on its way. Tankless water heaters can take longer to heat up, but they will never run out of hot water.

Tank-Type Water Heater

This is the most common type of water heater, utilizing a cold water inlet to bring water into a large, heavily insulated storage tank. The water is then heated (normally using either gas or electricity as a heat source) and then stored until needed, at which point it exits through the hot water demand.

Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve

As water is heated in the tank, steam can be generated, causing excess pressure that, in the sealed environment of the storage tank, could lead to a disastrous collapse. Modern water heaters are fitted with relief valves that sense these pressure spikes and automatically vent excess steam. This is normally on top of the heater, with a plastic tube for the vented steam.

Thermostat

The control mechanism used to adjust the temperature of the water within the heater. This is normally located adjacent to the heating element – so near the bottom of the heater on gas heaters, and in two locations, the bottom and the top, for electric heaters. If there are two heaters, both should be set to the same temperature, so the two heating elements are not working at cross purposes.

Venting System

In the case of gas powered furnaces, a venting system must be used to deal with waste gases from the combustion process. This system generally vents directly to the outside, and, in the case of high-efficiency gas-powered furnaces, may be aided by an electric motor.

How to Stop a Water Heater Leak

One of the biggest household problems you can go through is a leaking water heater. This can cause all sorts of damage to your property, leaving you with thousands of dollars in expenses as you try to repair everything. To this end, it’s best to fix this problem as soon as possible. This typically isn’t something that you should do yourself given the amount of things that can go wrong. But this doesn’t mean that you can’t stop further damage from occurring. The process of stopping a water heater leak is fairly simple, and only requires a few steps that are outlined here.

Turn everything off

If you’re using an electric water heater, the first course of action is to turn it off at the breaker that controls the water heater. Since a leak is occurring you don’t want the heater to be running, wasting water, and potentially damaging itself. If you’re using a gas water heater, find the shutoff valve that connects to the water tank, and turn it all the way down. Besides the potential damage, a leak makes your water heater a lot less efficient, so you would end up wasting a lot of electricity or gas, costing you a lot more money over time.

And of course, you also need to shut off the water supply to the heater. On the right-hand side of the water tank, you’ll see around knob next to the cold inlet. Turning it clockwise as far as it will go will turn off the water supply and prevent any further leaking.

Find water meter

If for some reason, turning off the water supply does not stop water from flowing, you’ll have to find the water meter outside of your house. Usually, this can be found in a valve closet near the street. You’re looking for a fairly small valve. Due to its size, you’ll have to turn it using pliers. In some cases, it may be a valve requiring a meter key to turn, so if that’s the case you need to make sure you have the key on hand.

Drain with hose

On the bottom of the tank will be a drain valve. If there is any remaining water inside of the tank, you’ll need to drain it out before you have a professional work on it. All you need is a standard garden hose that you can screw onto the drain valve. Just make sure that you drain it completely in order to prevent further damage. Note that you should drain the water into a gutter or sink as opposed to the yard or driveway.

Other Thoughts

You also need to make sure that you have an actual water heater leak rather than simply a loose or open valve. An open water relief valve will cause water to accumulate on the floor, and you definitely don’t want to call a plumber for such a simple problem. And as mentioned before, if you don’t have experience with fixing water heaters, do not attempt to do it yourself. You’ll save yourself a lot of heartaches.

What Causes a Hot Water Heater to Leak?

Loose Valve

We recommend checking your drain valve (Look up here if you do not know what it is) .  This is usually located on the bottom part of your tank.  There are times that this particular valve becomes loose over time due to constant pressure.  This means that a leak can be a simple fix.  You can simply use a wrench and tighten the valve.  If this does not work, but you still notice that the leak is coming from the drain valve, you may have to replace it.

If you are replacing it.  You will want to take the necessary precautions in replacing your drain valve.  This includes shutting off the main gas or power supplies.  This is critical as you do not want any spark to hurt you.

You will simply attach a garden hose to the drain valve so that the water will come out. After all the water has finally drained out, you will want to remove the hose and to keep the temperature open.  Use a wrench to remove older drain valve and set it completely aside.

Wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the new valve so no leakage will occur in the future.  Test and all should be good.

Excessive Pressure

If you are dealing with excessive pressure build up in the tank then there is a great chance that your release valve is faulty and may have to be replaced.  If you are going to replace the valve yourself, we do recommend going about the traditional procedures of safety and shutting off all electricity or gas related to the hot water heater.

Other factors that will contribute to this are the simple fact of having a strong flow of water causing a leak.

Sometimes the natural flow of water is simply too much for the water heater to handle.   Make sure that the temperature of the heater isn’t set too high.

If it is set too high, then this will trip the valve.  Last but not least, you will always want to review your owner’s manual for these specific situations as they will give you the best course of action.

Corrosion

The typical lifespan of a hot water heater is 15 to 20 years.  However, corrosion can happen much sooner than this.  Corrosion is so powerful that it can ultimately eat through the tank and cause a hole in the hot water heater tank.

 If you sense that this is happening then you may need to replace your hot water tank as there is no way to actually fix or reverse corrosion.  We do recommend that you check the sediment levels in your tank because this can lead to faster rate of corrosion.

In conclusion, these are the three most common forms of why there may be a leak in your hot water heater.  There are exceptions, however.  Just remember, that before you take any steps, it is always recommended that you turn off all the power supplies whether you have a gas or electric heater.

11 Steps To Replace A Hot Water Tank Simply

Hot water tanks need replacing every so often. As they age, they begin to leak and corrode. When that happens, it’s time to replace your hot water tank.

Before beginning, it’s imperative you choose a tank that is going to fit your space. Make sure you measure the space it will be going in, as well as the pipes to and from it so that you don’t buy a water tank that isn’t going to fit your space. To get started, you’ll need a new tank, a hacksawTeflon tapecopper flex connectors, a soldering gun, a wrench, and a garden hose. Make sure your breakers are off before getting to work. That will prevent any electrical mishaps.

1.   On the old tank, find the drain valve located at the bottom and attach one end of the garden hose to it. Depending on your workspace, put the other end of the hose outside, or in a bathtub. This will allow the tank to drain without flooding your home.

2.   Once the hose is set up, open the drain valve by turning it counterclockwise. To aid in the water draining, you can flip the pressure relief. This switch can be found on the top of the water tank.

3.   Remove the front panel, access the electrical box on the water heater. Unscrew the plastic wire caps inside to disconnect the wires.

4.   Using the hacksaw, cut the pipes leading to the water tank. The pipes should be cut about 6” from the water tank.

5.   Get rid of the old tank to make room for the new one. Be careful moving the tanks as they are heavy and cumbersome.

6.   Once the new tank is in position, connect copper flex connectors to the water supply lines. Using the soldering gun, solder the copper pipes to the existing pipes before soldering the other end of it to the tank.

7.   If a new pressure relief valve needs to be replaced, install it now. Using Teflon tape, wrap the threads of the valve, and tighten into the top of the tank using the correct wrench. This ensures a close fit.

8.   Check the drain valve to make sure it is closed.

9.   Fill the tank with water by turning on the water supply. Turn on a hot tap in the home until water runs out to let air escape.

10. It’s time to wire the tank up. The electrical panel on the new tank can be accessed the same way it was on the old one. Connect the wires from the home to the hot water junction box. The cover of the junction box can be covered and secured with its screws now.

11. After the heater is filled, turn the power back on and adjust the temperature. The temperature should be set to 120 degrees for safety.

Go inside and enjoy a hot shower after all that hard work!